when you say to keep traps properly tuned what all is needed to be done?pan tension,and what else. sorry for all the questions just trying to learn. Thanks

yes, making sure the pan clears the levers and i like to mod all mine. thanks denny

tell me more about the modifing of the trap what is done when doing this.also which way do you turn the trap when making a dirt hole set, dog to the left or facing the hole or etc. and do you add some chain to stock chain on a trap, if so how much before putting on the super stake. i will be trapping coon, fox ,coyote. Thanks

I don't use super stakes for coon traps, either cable to a small tree, use a rebar stake or a drag. I use super stakes where I think I may get a yote.

I completely mod all my traps. It's probably not necessary by feel better. But if you are completely modding coyote traps, it is cheaper just to buy MBs to start off. I have more $ in my bridger #2's than I do my MB550's. To do serious mods you need a welder. On my duke 1.5's, they are either double jawed or laminated, most I welded the cross frames and base plated, twin loop chain replaced with straight link, night latched, mid chain swivels....they would probably hold a coyote everytime but I don't use them for that. Why did I do all that those traps? Mostly for giggles, and it is fun to take a piece of crap trap and turn it into a little tank.

But modding and tuning are not really the same thing.

Tuning is taking a trap, either new out of box or used, and make sure that it is functioning properly. That means checking the pan tension, leveling the pan, some level the loose jaw, making sure everything is in proper working order. Nothing like checking a set to find the pan bottomed out and the trap not fired because the dog needed adjusting.

hello, i try to base plate all my traps. especially for yotes. that get the chain in the center of your traps and less likely for a pull out. and yes update the chain to some #2 or #3 chain. put 2 to 3 swivels in the chain. i put 2 in mine. one at the center of the trap and one on the end of the chain. lot of peeps use one in the center as well. and laminate the jaws helps form not breaking any bones better. i nite latch all my pans. i replace the brass screw in the pan with a #10 brass screw to get rid of the slop in the pan. and grind the edge's of the pan to keep it from hitting the levers. some peeps may do other thing and some not. just what every you want to do. on my dirt holes i have the dog at 2 o'clock from the hole. thanks denny

bronco2 could you post a pic of the nite latch so i can see how to do it and a pic of the screw you replace in the pan and how much you grind off the pan. pics help me more . Thanks

hello, here is a picture of the nite latch and screw. this is a new duke #3 trap. the brass screw in it didn't need to be replaced. most duke pans have a oval shape hole in them that cause's a lot of pan travel. the #3's i have don't. you can see in the first picture of the new trap. you don't have to do this. i just like to. but the pan hits the levers when it is fired. so if you grind them down some. they don't and you gain a little more foot bit on the trap. the second picture you can see how high the pan holds up on the levers when its closed. if you grind it down it will hit the bottom of the trap. the 3 picture is a stock pan slot.

I see your pan notch, and looks like it was ground flush, but that's not a night latch. A night latch is cutting a tiny step in either the pan notch or the dog. When you set the trap you will hear an audible click as the dog and notch lock together. That's where the name comes from, click, you can set the trap at night and it's right without a light based on the click. When the pan drops under pressure, there is no travel as the trap fires. I have been cutting the step in my dogs rather than the pan notch because that's worked better for me.

Also, why grind the pans? That is counter intuitive as it will reduce the kill area of the trap. It doesn't matter if they contact the levers...it won't make a difference if a paw is in the trap. Furthermore, if you grind them too much they could drop down between the levers and keep the trap from firing. I have seen that happen.

true neil. i forgot to put the last picture up. it only lets you put 3 files up at a time. that's just the way i like to do it. you can do what ever you want to do to your traps. i saw Johnnie Thorpe do it to some of his traps and that made a lot of scents to me. that's the only reason i like it. gives you a little more catch. thanks denny

Denny, you can take this with a grain of salt if you will, I'm not trying to bust on you just trying to help, but your nite latch step is a bit deep in that pan notch. You want to make a very small cut about half that size, just enough to catch the dog. Otherwise, you loose the advantage of the nightlatch, there will be still a lot of pan travel.

That is why I like nitelatching the dog. It takes a bit longer, but for me is easier to get a precise result. And if you go too far, you have more room to fix it.

One other note, on duke traps the way they press and cut the dogs, there is a ridge of metal on top of the dog end. Which ever side you nitelatch, that needs to be filed off and the dog squared up.

after the nite latch is cut and good, it may take a adjustment to the arm with the dog to make sure the sits level (you can use vice grips or the claw of a hammer to pull it out or push it in a little).